Need to pick your brains :)

[EQUIPE-T]

hi all need to pick your brains got a few issues with the VS thats going to be fixed over the next week or 4, was going over the car this arvo grabbing a finial replacement/inspection list and 2 things that are worrying me are these,

The induction noise: got louder over the last few days ( started about a week ago ), iv checked everything that came to mind, seals/gaskets are fine no leaks, clamps are tight with no leaks, air filter is almost new, sencors are tested and fine, yet it still has very loud induction noise ( even at 60kph i can hear it as if im driving without the induction pipe on and it running straight from the throttle body, will do this all day no matter how much i drive it ) watch the video and make a guess, im out of ideas :confused:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TORQMdNC5cc

Tappet noise: i think?? after car has been started it makes the tapping noise then goes away, on idle you can only just hear it, bring the RPM up to 1500rpm it gets bloody loud ( you'll be able to hear it in the video at the end, must listen carefuly thou as the induction noise is drowning it out ), all i can think of is have i got a lazy rocker? broken valve spring? bent valve rod? its got me beat, anyone know?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=InZ4LZgvuJM

please people i need a hand here :)

cheers, Pete

[V8 Calais]

Has it got oil pressure lol.... What oil is in it?

Might be dodgey lifters, I have to replace the lifters in mine as they bleed out after a while. Does it go away after you run the car for a while? Btw not good to rev it up if its not getting oil up there.

For the induction noise whats the idle like? has it dropped down, try giving it abit more idle adjustment and see how it goes, i know if i back my idle right down (other than it trying to stall i get that induction noise)

[EQUIPE-T]

Has it got oil pressure lol.... What oil is in it?

Might be dodgey lifters, I have to replace the lifters in mine as they bleed out after a while. Does it go away after you run the car for a while? Btw not good to rev it up if its not getting oil up there.

For the induction noise whats the idle like? has it dropped down, try giving it abit more idle adjustment and see how it goes, i know if i back my idle right down (other than it trying to stall i get that induction noise)

if no oil is getting up there all hell would break loose lol, using HPR50 penrite with a liqui moly tappet additive

idle is fine now ( cept on a few occasions it goes back to vibrating like a vibrator, then other times its fine :confused: ) adjusted the idle after the induction noise started, sits on a nice 800rpm now and under load sits on 770rpm, induction noise hasnt changed thou

[V8 Calais]

does the tappet noise go away after driving for abit or constantly there?

[EQUIPE-T]

does the tappet noise go away after driving for abit or constantly there?

little from section A little from section B lol

[John]

Why Hpr 50? To thick for the poor pump

[GMH085]

Time for a 304 pete!!!!

[Darren]

Why Hpr 50? To thick for the poor pump

50 grade is beneficial for engines with a lot of kays under the belt.
a worn oil pump with increased clearances is going to have more chance of maintaining oil pressure with a higher viscosity oil.

[Darren]

induction or high pitched 'hissing' noise is usually the IAC opening more than usual.

In most cases it's because the base idle hasn't been set properly. Your idle can be sitting at the right rpm, because the job of the IAC is to ensure your engine does maintain the right idle RPM. But if the base idle is too low, the IAC has to open more to maintain the correct idle speed - hence the increased suction noise.

Carry out a proper base idle adjustment - ie don't just play with the idle screw.
If you don't know how to carry out a base idle adjustment, let me know & I will give you a run down on how to do it.

[John]

Id try HPR 30 before 50 through. I did 50 in the clubsport and pressure didn't change all to much. However the oil flow up top was crap. Within several weeks my tappets got noisy. Instantly switched to 30 and it stabalised. Still have the tappet noise but it hasn't changed in pitch again yet.

[EQUIPE-T]

Id try HPR 30 before 50 through. I did 50 in the clubsport and pressure didn't change all to much. However the oil flow up top was crap. Within several weeks my tappets got noisy. Instantly switched to 30 and it stabalised. Still have the tappet noise but it hasn't changed in pitch again yet.

the V6 in my VS was for a better word abused, it went ( i found out after i bought the car ) 102,000ks without even a airfilter change, when i got it i did the usual look around, take for a drive ect ect ect, car yard did a dodgy on me, got the car home and within a week it was carrying on like a cut snake, drained the oil ( which had the consistency of grease it was that bad ), spark plugs with absolutely rat shit ( they where GM plugs ), oil filter was clogged, fuel filter was clogged, leads are original factory ( yes been going since 96' pretty good huh? lol, still yet to replace ) so it was rat shit, i took everything apart and cleaned it up ( to the extent of removing the intake manifold/injectors ect ect ) replaced a few nessecary items ( water pump, altenator ect )

but unfortunatly i didnt get to it in time, what im doing at the moment is basically replacing the bandaid when i can, rear mains leakin like a bitch ( when it wants to!! it can go 3 - 4 weeks without a leak then all of a sudden there a liter on the driveway :confused: got me stumped lol ), power steering is starting to shudder when comming back from full lock and it starting to whine at low speeds, got that lazy tappet, and what i think is a sick AFM ( due to a flat spot in the morning that goes once drivin until the next day :rolleyes: ), rear uni's are loose again, rear trailing arms are buggered, front shocks are still FRACKED!! (thankyou very much *_________ * << insert shockie company here ), auto is actually behaving itself :eek: haha, transmission mounts are buggered, engine mounts are on their way out,

Yes frosty it might be just a case of ditching the boat anchor ( V6 ) and try an find a cheap enough 5ltr auto conversion ( something i want to do to it ), or in worst case find another V6 and chuck that in for the time being.

John, i think what i mentioned above can justify using HPR50, i tried HPR30, ( after i flushed the bloody thing 7 times :rolleyes: ) and all i got was a whole heap or bottom end noise and top end noise, that last 2 days lol, drained it ( it had gone black again lol ) and put HPR50 in with a Liqui Moly tappet quietner additive, this has pretty much silenced the bottom end noise and pretty much gotten rid of the top end noise ( barr that lazy tappet ), my only problem is i dont know wether its worth getting the internals inspected or just ditch it for a 5ltr ( which i will be doing down the track anyway )

Darren: any help would be great thanks mate, iv adjusted the level RPM but was unsure of how to do the base rpm and cant find anything about it in my books or the net.

sorry for my lil rants guys, im just over the constant problems i face with this car at the moment, but something i dont want to do is just cut an run, i like the ol girl to much to do that

[Darren]

John in my experience, I found going up in oil viscosity improves rattly engines rather than going down in viscosity. It's fairly common practise to go to a thicker oil when engines are worn. As clearances increase with engine wear, thicker grade oils are required. Even the Penrite 50 container recommends 50 grade oil for high km engines.

[Darren]

Pete, base idle procedure (without the benefit of a Tech 1 tool) as follows.
ensure A/C is turned off, and transmission is in park

1. ignition on/engine off & earth/bridge the diagnostic connector - wait approx 30 seconds
2. disconnect the IAC connector located on throttle body
3. switch ignition off.
4. remove the engine fuse (fuse box under the bonnet) for approx 30 seconds & refit
5. start engine
6. if engine doesn't idle, then wind in the throttle stop screw half a turn and try again. Repeat until engine will idle
7. adjust idle speed (using the idle screw) to 500-600rpm
8. un-bridge diagnostic connector
9. rev engine to 3000rpm for at least 10 seconds, allow engine to settle back to idle.
10. cycle transmission through PRND and then switch A/C on and wait for revs to stabilise

road test, may take up to 15km for idle to stabilise properly

[EQUIPE-T]

Pete, base idle procedure (without the benefit of a Tech 1 tool) as follows.
ensure A/C is turned off, and transmission is in park

1. ignition on/engine off & earth/bridge the diagnostic connector - wait approx 30 seconds
2. disconnect the IAC connector located on throttle body
3. if engine hasn't stalled, then switch it off.
4. remove the engine fuse (fuse box under the bonnet) for approx 30 seconds & refit
5. start engine
6. if engine doesn't idle, then wind in the throttle stop screw half a turn and try again. Repeat until engine will idle
7. adjust idle speed (using the idle screw) to 500-600rpm
8. un-bridge diagnostic connector
9. rev engine to 3000rpm for at least 10 seconds, allow engine to settle back to idle.
10. cycle transmission through PRND and then switch A/C on and wait for revs to stabilise

road test, may take up to 15km for idle to stabilise properly

thanks mate will do it this weekend

[John]

I musta got a bad batch of the stuff then, cause from what everyone says it should have outperformed the 30. I guess my major problem was it was to thick to allow sufficient oil flow up top

[V8 Calais]

Hey darren do you know what idle a 5ltr likes? Mine idles around 800rpm when its happy but sometimes just ups to 1000rpm. Not to sure how reliable the gauge is tho either.